Thursday, February 18, 2010

carrots: buttered & jammed

i've found that canning in february has it's perks...eventually. or,



eventually i found that canning in february has it's perks.

basically what i'm sayin' is; at first thought canning carrots in feb was a brilliant idea. you know, good chance of them being local and all.

and then the only carrots i could find anywhere were cal-organic. :(

i mean, i'm in new england for cryin' out loud! carrots are supposed to grow on trees here no?

...so i'm there with my 5 lb bag of well-traveled agribiz carrots thumbing though a myriad of canning books looking for something to get excited about when as luck would have it excitement came knocking at my door -

by way of a friendly neighbor carrying a paper bag swelling it seemed, to it's seams with these:


"peggy's been reading your canning blogs and when i came home from work today with these, she told me to bring some over to you...thought you could use some."

joy!

(i must admit this event has bumped me up a notch in my own book(blog?) - i mean isn't it legend that christine ferber's neighbors come from miles around with offerings of the choicest of fruit that she may grace it with her preserving prowess? i imagine the wild and delicate alsace fruit lay quivering in their rustic french baskets praying to be handled by her royal jamness...)

ok, my neighbor lives just across the street, works at windy hill farm, and would probably give me the apples whether i canned or not, but still...

these are the things i think about.

:)

of those carrots and apples i made this:

more on that later.

because there happens to be a 2nd series of events that prompted me to make yet another batch of something carroty this feb.

ok, so we're driving back to LIC from the berkshires and about 30 minutes into the trip we make our routine stop here to pick up milk, bread etc for the coming week. and of course what do i see?

local gorgeous vermont-grown carrots!

what's a can jammer to do?

buy them of course!

another thing that happens around this time of year: i start to get antsy about using up all of my freezer-preserved produce in anticipation of the coming season. rhubarb and strawberries' days are numbered in the late winter months because they are some of the first things to spring forth in the new season.

these two happenings combined prompted me to combine these to happenings, and so i made this:


without further ado:



carrot apple butter with cardamom
adapted from the joy of jams, jellies & other sweet preserves by linda ziedrich

4 pounds carrots
about 4 cups water
3 & 1/2 pounds tart apples
4 cups sugar (i use raw)
teaspoon vanilla extract
1 tablespoon ground cardamom seeds
pint and 1/2 pint mason jars
food mill

yield: approximately 5 pints (this recipe can easily be cut in half)

1. peel and slice carrots thinly. put into preserving pot and barely cover with water. bring to the boil and then simmer, covered, until tender.

2. while carrots are simmering peel, core and slice apples thinly. when carrots are just tender add apples and continue to simmer until both are very soft.

3. while the carrots and apples are simmering, break open the cardamom pods with the end of a pestle or the like. take out the black seeds inside and discard the green casings. the seeds will be easy to grind with a mortar and pestle. they are quite sticky, so i stay away from an electric spice grinder when i am grinding them by themselves.



4. when the carrots and apples are soft put them through the medium screen of a food mill.

5. put milled carrots & apples, sugar and ground cardamom into the preserving pot, heat at first on medium-low until the sugar dissolves. once sugar has dissolved raise heat a bit, stirring more frequently as the butter thickens.

it is done when it becomes a shade darker, a bit glossy and a spreadable thickness. you should be able to drag your stirring spoon across the bottom of the pot and form a clean line, the butter hovering on either side for a second or two before it folds itself back over the bottom of the pan. mine took about 30 minutes.

while the butter is cooking, prepare your canning pot and jars.

6. when butter has reached sufficient thickness, take off heat and stir in vanilla extract.

7. fill pint and half pint jars, leaving 1/4 inch headspace, wiggle the jar a bit and run a spatula around the insides to get rid of air bubbles.

8. hot water bath process for 10 minutes.


next!

carrot rhubarb jam with rosemary
adapted from well preserved by mary anne dragan

4 cups shredded carrots (i used a food processor)
4 cups rhubarb, sliced across into 1/4 inch pieces
6 cups sugar (i use raw)
2 cara cara oranges, juice and zest
2 meyer lemons, juice and zest
2 heaping tablespoons of dried rosemary
pint and 1/2 pint mason jars, or smaller

yeild: approximately 2 & 1/2 pints


day 1
1. use a peeler to take very thin slices of zest off of the oranges & lemons, leaving all of the white pith behind. use a knife to chop zest into very small dice. juice all the fruit after you've de-zested them.

2. because it's winter i used dried rosemary. if you are making this in a clime where rosemary grows all year, or at the time of year when you can get fresh then by all means, use it! (i would use about 4 large sprigs and keep them whole). if you are using dried make sure it is from a good source, or better yet some you've dried yourself from your garden. because dried herbs that are sourced incorrectly or old might as well be dried bits of paper.

if using dried place in a tea ball, or a bit of tight weaved cheese cloth or butter muslin.



3. combine sugar, citrus juice & chopped zest, shredded carrots, and chopped rhubarb in a bowl and mix. bury the tea ball or bag of rosemary in the mixture. if using fresh sprigs mix them gently in, keeping them in tact so that you can fish them out later.



4. place covered bowl in fridge overnight to macerate.


day 2

the next day prepare your canning pot and jars. place 2 or 3 small plates in the freezer to test set later on.

1. pour mixture into preserving pot and bring to the boil. leave the rosemary in the boil for 2-3 minutes then remove. boil for approximately 25 minutes until sufficiently set. the shredded carrot and rhubarb should still remain somewhat intact.

gel point was reached at 220 degrees on a candy thermometer. if using the frozen plate method, place a teaspoon of the hot jam on the cold plate and place back in freezer for 1 minute. run your finger through the gel that falls around the carrot and rhubarb, if it forms a gentle wrinkle underneath your finger it has sufficiently set. if you are new to jam making you may need to test a few times, remember to take the pot off the heat while testing so as not to overcook.

2. fill hot jars, leaving 1/4 headspace, hot water bath process for 10 minutes.



tigress' can jam february: carrot: double success!

carrot apple butter with cardamom - if you are a regular jam and jelly eater like me, butter can take a minute to get used to, but this works deliciously slathered on quick breads and stirred into a cup of yogurt. the cardamom definitely added a well-received hit of warmth.

learning:
i was aiming for a less sweet butter, next time i would take the sugar down by at least 1/2 a cup, maybe a bit more. another option would be to go really tart on the apples, i'm thinking carrot crab apple butter. i would also try it with a whole vanilla bean next time in place of the vanilla extract. all and all from this intrepid jam-maker, i am intrigued by the butter making process and am excited to explore it more.

carrot rhubarb jam with rosemary - this is by far the star of my february can jam show! the texture is very ferberesque, with bits of fruit and vegetable floating jewel-like in an herbal jell. the carrot, rhubarb and rosemary taste is clear as a bell.

learning: i'm excited about the idea of making a very worthwhile jam in the dead of winter, and with frozen rhubarb that i inevitably have packed by the bushelfull because i swear, i have a field of rhubarb growing each spring. i dare say this jam doesn't suffer in the least from root-cellared carrots, frozen rhubarb, and freshly dried rosemary. a perfect winter project, and a damn good addition to my repertoire!

jammin' in feb!


i know it's windy outside, it's even longer-winded in here but i've got just one more thing to tell ya:

take note all you can jammers: february's round-up post will be posted here next wednesday because even though i've been gettin' my sweet tooth on, i see a lot of pickle-pushing out there - exciting!

and for everyone else; get your carrots in a bunch, 'cause if you're excited about what i just said above just wait until next wednesday!

:)

31 comments:

  1. Well done, I wanted to try something sweet but just couldn't do it as it just didn't sound right - seeing your success, I may have to go for it after all. Can't wait to see what everyone has done!

    ReplyDelete
  2. Haven't posted mine yet (made pickles) but something I've been wondering. What prevents botulism from growing in jams ? Is it the sugar ? I love your carrot and rhubarb jam - I'll be making that one for sure.

    ReplyDelete
  3. melanie- in short, it's the acid that prevents the growth of botulism toxin in jams. the carrot rhubarb jam has enough acid because of the rhubarb and citrus, and the butter has the acid from the apples.

    ReplyDelete
  4. Love the carrot-rhubarb; I was eyeing my own frozen rhubarb, but I went with the wrinkly apples instead.

    I'm surprised that the carrot-apple butter is acidic enough; I mean, I'm sure it's a trustworthy recipe, just that if I saw this floating around on the internet, I wouldn't have trusted it. (You know, on that OTHER Internet, not the one we're on right now.) Interesting.

    ReplyDelete
  5. so beautiful, the both of them! i just ordered my first ferber book the other day, am anxiously awaiting it's arrival. i'm thoroughly enjoying the can jam ride--thanks for organizing!

    ReplyDelete
  6. I will have to wait till rhubarb season starts (having none frozen) - but I am doubly-intrigued by your flavors. I made gelato for an event with rosemary, lemon, and strawberry and it was outrageous.

    The carrots did throw me for a loop on jams, so I went to pickles, but damn! They are good.

    Regards,

    Tengrain

    ReplyDelete
  7. I love making butters and rarely ever make jelly or jams now. With butters I can decrease the sugar and I prefer to taste the fruit rather then the sugar.

    A few years ago I made Rose Hip Butter and it was so good. Messy to clean the rose hips but so worth it!

    ReplyDelete
  8. These are beautiful! I'm so new at this, it never occurred to me to make a spread. Wow! I made pickles, too, and it's killing me to wait another whole week to see how they turned out! :-)

    ReplyDelete
  9. The carrot apple butter looks fantastic! I also leanded towards the sweet side, because I don't eat pickles (except for cornichons). Might be a tough year for me - or maybe I find a sweet alternative for whatever comes up. Let's see: onion jam, kohlrabi jam, radish jam.... ;-)

    ReplyDelete
  10. I do a lot of butters. They have so many uses: spreads, cake, cookie, pastry fillings, swirled into yogurt, meat and veg glazes, mixed with oil and vinegar for salads, etc. But the trick I learned after standing for many hours over a pot stirring and avoiding the scorch was to put the puree into a roaster and bake it in the oven until it reached the right consisitency. Only a good stir every half hour or so (a little more often as the right consistency approaches)and no more watched pots or scorching worries!

    ReplyDelete
  11. This carrot rhubarb jam looks awesome!! And it reminds me very much of your legendary rhubarb lavendar jam -- one of the best jams I've ever had:) I answered your lemon question on flickr. I love that we both went with carrot-apple butter:)

    ReplyDelete
  12. That jam looks out. of. control. Oh, rhubarb, when will you be poking out of the cold, cold ground? Alas...The butter looks fab too, but the jam, the jam is what I'm talking about.

    ReplyDelete
  13. we don't eat sweets to much in my house but the cardamom puts your carrot apple butter right up my alley. yum! can't wait 'til wednesday!

    ReplyDelete
  14. Both of those look absolutely fantastic, yum!

    ReplyDelete
  15. Both look delicious. I don't think I've ever had a sweet carrot jam, but seeing as I just started to like carrot cake I think I wouldn't have searched them out before now. Guess this will be on my list of recipes.

    My carrots were pickles, Mexican style! Here's the post: http://dinadina619.tumblr.com/post/399675158/no-good-pickled-carrot-puns

    Cheers, Dina

    ReplyDelete
  16. I am so trying that carrot apple butter. Plain apple butter is one of my favorite things. Ever. I imagine carrots only make it swetter and more yummy.

    ReplyDelete
  17. Love the idea of both of your preserves. You've reminded me I have some crab apples, pureed with vanilla, in the freezer, so I could use them for your butter recipe. I love cardamons as a flavouring too. Note to canjammers: every time any of you mention a book I don't have, I order it on Amazon. Please stop now.

    ReplyDelete
  18. local kitchen - yes i know what you mean, i did contemplate putting some citrus in but its from a very reputable source so i trust it.

    cosmic cowgirl - if you've just ordered her jam book get ready for a real treat!

    rebecca - thanks for the tip, sounds like a great technique!

    julia - we don't live that far from each other, feel free to come over with a pick-up truck and take all the rhubarb you need in the spring ;)

    everyone - i am very much looking forward to reading all your posts this weekend!

    ReplyDelete
  19. I am going to taste my pickles today. I gave them a whole week to mellow or whatever they do. I'll let you know if they are good. I really like the look of the carrot rhubarb jam. I want some of those weck jars. I lost out on some on ebay last week. I'll keep looking.

    ReplyDelete
  20. I made Vietnamese Carrot and Daikon Pickle from the Complete Book of Home Preserving by Kingry and Devine. A picture in posted on Flickr. It has grated ginger and star anise in the brine. I cooked the vegetables too long. I thought it said to cook 30 sec after coming back to a boil, but it was 30 sec after adding to the brine, so they're a bit floppy. I opened a can today and hoo boy ! I think I don't like pickled radish ! The odor is really strong. I hope it mellows with some aging. Can't wait to see the round up for more carrot ideas.

    ReplyDelete
  21. ooo! ooo! ooo! I've bookmarked this under "gifts in a jar" for next Christmas!! There's more than one way to get the grandkids (AKA the little blighters) to eat their carrots! Now, I wonder if you can "jam" spinach! None of them are Popeye!

    ReplyDelete
  22. I too have had a hard time finding a good source of carrots in February for my (better late than never) entry in the Can jam.

    ReplyDelete
  23. That carrot apple butter sounds wonderful! I just may have to try that one. The jam sounds interesting as well but I'm not sure about Rhubarb.

    ReplyDelete
  24. these both look good! i'm especially intrgied by the carrot apple butter--great deas to use crabapples and less sugar. i gotta have lower sugar inmy james and butters, or i just wont eat them. i'm saving this recipe! and i'm looking forward to wednesday!

    ReplyDelete
  25. Tigress -

    I found the Ferber book, Mes Confitures in a used bookstore, and it is da bomb. I also found Mes Tartes and it is also amazing.

    Thanks for hosting this challenge, I'm enjoying the creativity of all the participants very much, and I am truly enjoying (dare I say relishing) the products.

    Regards,

    Tengrain

    ReplyDelete
  26. Love that combination of carrot, rhubarb and rosemary. I am fortunate enough to have rosemary growing year around (started from one small plant 4 yrs ago) and must try this! Thanks for a great post!

    ReplyDelete
  27. How critical is the sugar in the butter recipe? I find carrots to be overly sweet to begin with and if there isn't any sugar, I can justify it to myself as just being cooked produce. Will leaving out the sugar make it more perishable?

    ReplyDelete
  28. sandramort - i would say that you could reduce the amount of sugar and still have a fruit butter. i wouldn't advise omitting the sugar altogether as the texture would not be the same. it would also not store as long, particularly once opened.

    ReplyDelete
  29. Wow! I was able to score a 25lb bag of carrots and I've been scouring the internet for different ways to use them up. The Carrot Apple Butter seemed to fit the bill. The only thing is I just can't seem to get my hands on cardamom easily, so I subbed cinnamon, ginger, and the zest from one fairly large orange. Can I just tell you that I'm in love? Oh, this is soooooo yummy...

    Thank you!

    ReplyDelete
  30. whitney - sounds like a great combo! so glad you found inspiration here. :)

    ReplyDelete