Sunday, June 27, 2010

strawberry preserves: tellecheri & smokin'

a-picking we will go, a-picking we will go, high-ho the berry-oh, a-picking we will go.



actually we already went, julia, kate, shae and i. we had fun.

and of course we ate.



and took photos of what we ate of course.

...so then i got home with 15 pounds of strawberries. i escorted about a pound of the cutest, easiest looking ones here (more on that shenanigan in the coming days).

6 lbs were rinsed, hulled, tossed with the juice of two lemons & 7 cups of sugar, and put in the fridge to relax.

...and it's really quite amazing how fast the remaining 7 or so pounds just disappeared. i didn't make anything else with them. they just kinda

vanished into chomping teeth.

if you know what i mean.

anywayz, back to the 6 lbs in the fridge:



first, you must know that strawberries are not the easiest thing to set up for a year's worth of boxed-pectin free preserves.

i mean, in theory they are. but if you're really aiming for a true preserve, not a syrup, and you want the fresh taste of the berry to shine, with not a trace of that over-cookedness that can happen so easily in the thick of things - or the attempt there of. then it takes a little know-how





or a little luck.

or some of these:




here let me explain-

first, i split those 6 lbs into 3 & 3. put the first of such in my preserving pot and brought it to the boil. let it cool and put it back in the fridge for another night of rest. and did the same with the other half.

next day, i also did the trick (still in two batches) of separating the now-condensed berries from the syrup, boiling the syrup quickly to 221 degrees before adding back the berries. and bringing the whole thing back to the boil and cooking until the setting point.

these things peeps, i have done quite a few times in summers past. and in summers past once those berries were added i had to cook, and cook to get that syrup to set. and if i didn't want to cook, and cook, because i wanted the bright berryness to remain, then i had a bright tasting strawberry syrup.

but this year is different, this year i managed to pluck (just barely) enough final hangers-on off of my three wee gooseberry bushes to garner 1 & 1/2 cups of gooseberry pectin*

and tho i haven't mentioned this one to you before - there's a staple strawberry preserve in my repertoire, whose flavor-combo we adore, but who each year is riddled with the above.

but this year is different:



tellecheri strawberry

3 lbs strawberries, quickly rinsed in cold water, then hulled
juice of 1 lemon
3 1/2 cups sugar
3/4 cup gooseberry pectin*
15-20 fresh mint leaves
15-20 black peppercorns (preferably tellecheri) freshly ground - use a mortar & pestle if you can
candy thermometer
1/2 pint, or pint mason jars

yeild: approximately 2 pints

day 1
macerate strawberries, lemon juice and sugar in fridge overnight.

day 2
bring strawberries with syrup to the boil. pour back into bowl, let cool and macerate in fridge overnight.

day 3
1. put 3 small plates in the freezer for use in testing the set later. prepare your jars and canning pot. sterilize the jars in a boiling water bath and leave them in the canner until you are ready to use them.

2. separate the strawberries from the syrup. add the syrup & the gooseberry pectin to the preserving pot and bring to the boil. using a candy thermometer, boil until 221 degrees. add berries, mint and ground pepper. boil for 5 minutes. turn the heat off and test the set by placing a teaspoonful on a frozen plate and placing plate back in freezer for about 30 seconds. run your finger through and if you see a wrinkle underneath it is properly set.

3. fill jars and process in a hot water bath for 5 minutes.

please do not cook and cook to get a thick set. if it wrinkles even slightly, and feels a bit jelly-like, it's done! this is the 5th year that i've made this combo and the difference in flavor upon truly cooking the berries for only 5 minutes is astonishing. the added gooseberry pectin is just what is needed to help the set along - and dare i say it sets the stage for the strawberry-ness to positively explode! the tellecheri & fresh mint add just the right amount of warmth and a bright herbal note.

this is a true preserve; it is not jammy.
the jel is soft but full-bodied, not sticky. whole condensed & luscious fruits are perfectly preserved and suspended in mid-jel.

it is lovely.

...the other 3 lbs of berries, & sugar & lemon had a destiny that i wasn't 100% sure on. i had an idea tho, an inkling, a feeling, a stroke of genius


apparently.

...and a bag of the freshest tasting ground chipotle powder i ever did taste (bought on my recent trip to cali at the san fransisco farmers market).

smokin' strawberry

follow the ingredients & directions as above, just switch out the tellecheri black pepper and the mint for 3/4 to 1 teaspoon of chipotle powder (i used 1 full teaspoon).

ever have a hunch that turns into a revelation?

this was it for me.

the smoked chile slyly creeps up & lures the berries out of all their niceties. i swear they blush an even darker shade of crimson.

... and then it's like the strawberries huff & puff and blow your house down.

srsly.



it's all about this:
*gooseberry pectin
2 lbs gooseberries, topped & tailed (or chopped unripe apples, stemmed only)
place in sauce pan with 1 & 1/2 cups water and simmer for 45 minutes. mash the berries a bit with a slotted spoon.
strain for 6 hours in a jelly bag and strainer or fine-weaved cheese cloth in colander.

this should give you approximately 1 & 1/2 cups of pectin rich juice.




ok, i think that's enough roarin' in one fell fruit.

12 comments:

  1. Oh you minx! Strawberry picking with can jamming pals, strawberry preserve with a kind of pepper I've never heard of, as well as making pectin with gooseberries - I feel I've woken up from an exotic dream. Will you be canning some pectin to use later? I am loving redcurrants for this very reason. Everyone seems to get so hung up about adding powered and liquid pectin from the shop when all the setting power we need is right here. Isn't summer brilliant?

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  2. Karen from Prospect: The PantryJune 28, 2010 at 8:41 AM

    I'm with you two on the currants and gooseberries. Need to find a plot to plant. I made currant pectin and also apple (though the new crop on the trees will do a better job). I pulled up short of a sweet hot strawberry jelly but with this new inspiration I'll try again. Bravo Tigress.

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  3. geeeez...there you go again tigress! The strawberries here are long gone and this year I didn't freeze enough to have the luxury of pulling some out to try the chipotle/strawberry thing. So bummed. Into the file it goes for next spring.

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  4. Thanks for the gooseberry pectin recipe. I have some in my yard now along with the currants. Didn't quite know what to do with them. Now I do.

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  5. Wow - just wow! I wonder hw a gooseberry would grow here in the bay area? I've never known anyone who has one. Will be looking into that now...my husband will love you, I am sure, for creating a desire for me to have a 6th fruit tree in our yard!

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  6. This is sheer genius. Really. I love the peppers. Love it! I did my strawberries with the green apple pectin and it came out beautiful, though I dare say I cooked it too long waiting for that perfect jell. Next time I'll know better. I'm a sucker for a jell, as you know. But an even bigger sucker for a great recipe that keeps a little strawberries integrity intact!

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  7. gloria - i agree! i don't have enough gooseberries this year for more pectin. but this week or next i will make green apple pectin and can it up so i have it for the year.

    karen from prospect: the pantry - yes do try again! :)

    rebecca - try it with raspberries - or cherries even!

    bonnie - great! all this current talk, i may need to plant some of my own...

    paige - they can be a bit finicky. but do try! even one bush can produce a lot once it gets going. and once they get to full ripeness - gooseberry pies are the shizzle!!

    julia - thanks! there is really something about the chipotle powder with the strawberries. try it when you can! and don't overcook 'dem berries! ;)

    daisy driver - :)

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  8. Talk about coming late to the party. How did I miss this one? I mean, first of all, I know those berries. (And I love your photo of our picnic; it beautifully represents the mountain of amazing food that it was.) Second, these recipes! Especially because the strawberry and pepper thing is one of my favorites and I can get my hands on that very same chipotle . . . what excuse do I have? None. Gonna have to go there.

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  9. Don't you just love experimenting....love you idea's I go right to the spice website and order stuff...thanx

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  10. Ok, pectin-free girls: Do I have to use apple, citrus, gooseberry pectin? I'll make some, I promise, but I'm doing one batch of (3 day) no-pectin just strawberry-sugar-lemon juice preserve just now, and totally want to do a version of the chipotle one too. Linda Z. recommends 2 1/2 lbs fruit and 4 whopping c. sugar, I'm thinking the sugar helps the gel after it boils down? Think I should run out and get some green apples (no gooseberries in my neck of the woods), or start another batch of high-sugar to inoculate with chipotle powder? Thoughts appreciated !!

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  11. rcakewalk - for me strawberry jam is the hardest to set. these strawberry preserves came out perfect last year with the gooseberry pectin. i made a batch this year with my green apple pectin and it did not set. i think my apple pectin had lost its potency - it was a bummer. i definitely recommend adding apple or gooseberry to get a good set to a strawberry jam as it is so worth it to get that perfect set with the powerful berry pop. and with the chipotle, it's one of my fave jams ever!

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